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Patterns of the Ancients: Fijian Tapa cloth
A traditional art form meets
20th Century economics

by Mara Jevera Fulmer
Assistant Professor/Program Coordinator in Graphic Design
C.S. Mott Community College, Flint, MI
(Formerly Art Director for The University of the South Pacific, Suva, Fiji)


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Patterns of Pride

The softest fiber cloth created from masi was usually for wearing, such as a sulu or for loin cloth. A tapa sulu ni gone is a wrapped skirt/dress made for a small child or infant. Generally, a little stiffer fiber is used for larger pieces or for ceremony but not so stiff as to make it unfoldable. One can sense the great pride taken in the intricacies and presentation of the designs, the skills displayed and the pliability of the fabric. Because it is used as a form of exchange of wealth, it is a matter of village pride to be able to provide the tapa which displays the superior skills of the women who created it in terms of texture, colour, intricacy and execution of the designs. When incorporated into rituals performed across family lines, in public view, or before chiefs of high rank, this becomes an even more special honour.

Browns and blacks dominate the tapa patterns against the ecru white of the fibrous masi cloth. Made from the natural materials available to them, the rusty browns are generally made from a mix of the mangrove plant infused with candlenut bark. Other reds are from the iron oxides in the red clays so abundant in parts of Fiji. And the blacks are usually from the charred candlenuts or the burnt tree resin of the dakua tree.1

The frigate bird, fish spines and cross create an interwoven affect that evokes an almost musical rhythm. Collection of the Fiji Museum.

The patterns invoke their creator's involvement in a sometimes harsh life, yet allows the suggestion of the general easiness of the Fijian character. Simple flowers break through more serious patterns that suggest the waves of the sea, the comb used to style the frizzy Fijian hair, the patterns of cannibal forks used for the now tabu ceremonial eating of the bokola (human flesh). Frigate birds playfully dance through more intricate geometric shapes suggesting even larger frigate birds. A Christian cross appears as if giving only minimal notice of its other meaning.

The patterns give life, like the old mysteries of elven paintings in Celtic lore. From them one feels the richness of a life full of purpose. The rhythm of an inner felt music, to move to in a functional dance that carries one through the magic of each dawning day. Everything experienced in play and in work serves the spirit, from climbing the trees for coconuts, turning the husk fiber into sinnet, scraping the coconut meat to create lolo (coconut cream), to the joy of eating the fruit of the day's labours made from the village communal efforts of those that fish, that farm, that clean, that prepare.

The patterns create motion, the forward movement of life in occurrence, the backwards motion of the reverie of lives gone past, an homage to ancestors. Alternating triangles of white and brown create a pinwheel motion of tumbling, rolling, a playful pattern of light and dark, like that of a child's toy. And so well this reflects the personality of the people who in the midst of the hard labours of day to day living can bring forth an almost childlike enjoyment and splash and play in the waters they harvest.

With stencils cut from palm leaves, or carved from bamboo to be rolled on and retouched, the patterns are imprecise, wavy, irregular in width of line and strength of character. Yet the overall patterns remain strong and recognizable. As in the variations and distractions on a life's journey, when viewed in completion the patterns become clear. This is the Fijian tapa. Life given, and life described.

This is the Fijian tapa cloth as it is in traditional ceremonies, in ritualistic and spiritual uses. It is a rare sight for the Western visitor, or kai valagi, to see tapa cloth of such a quality as to evoke these feelings of mystery and life. To view the tapas at the Fiji Museum in Suva is to travel back to a time where the warriors fought, the chiefs ruled and the white man was only an enigma to be largely ignored.

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This article was originally presented in October 1994, Syracuse University, Syracuse, NY.Revised May 1998.
Copyright 1999 Mara Jevera Fulmer. All Rights Reserved.

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